In this page are very important setting up and calibrating information to all Bomber console owners. Regardless of whether you have IL-2 Sturmovik Great Battles, Cliffs of Dover, Digital Combat Simulator (DCS) or even War Thunder: read this page first and then map your console according to special characteristics of it!
Bomber console is planned primarily for twin engine aircrafts but it also works good with the fighters and attackers. However, the consoles have only on throttle lever and one RPM lever because in almost every case both engines must give the same power for normal operation. If you only need to adjust the throttle or RPM of another (eg. damaged) engine, you can do so very easily: Select Engine 1 or 2 from the engine selection buttons and use the throttle or RPM levers to lower only the power of the damaged engine. Then you can select both engines to run again and fly with different engine powers.
The images show in red color all the eight axes of both gas consoles that must first be calibrated according to the instructions below. The switches marked with blue button numbers 01 - 64 are directly understood by IL-2 Sturmovik GB so they are only mapped with the in-game Key Mapping function like all other controllers.
In addition, the Bomber console (above) features special buttons and switches on the MJ16 circuit board, labeled with white and yellow button numbers 65-112 and hats 1-4. All of these buttons and switches need to be mapped with Joystick Gremlin and vJoy for IL-2 Sturmovik games to understand them. (Instructions are later in this page).
USB cable is not included with the console. Throttle Console has an USB 2 type B connector as in this picture below. You find suitable (length) USB cable to your home cockpit from computer shops.
You must calibrate all the eight axes og the console carefully with the instructions below. It is also good to check calibration sometimes for ex. before important missions or after a long period without using it. Open Devices and Printers and select the Game Controllers Setup. Click the icon with the right mouse button and select the Game Controls from the list.
Select the throttle console from your game controls list, it can be MJ16, OJ16 or even TRTL depending on your Windows version. Click then Properties and the Properties window is opening.
Click Settings and then Calibrate - The Game Device Calibration window opens. Click Next.
Next window asks you to "Leave the handle centered" but it means the conventional joystick's handle. With the throttle console you must center the two potentiometers on the consoles's deck which are X-axis = Outlet cowl shutters and Y-axis = Inlet cowl shutters. Center both pot knobs visually to the value 50 of consoles dial (12 o'clock) and click then Next.
In the next window tick the "Display Raw Data". Rotate both pots to full clockwise (open) and then full counter clockwise (close) couple of times. The numeric (raw) values should be between 495 / minus 512 for both axes. After that center both pot knobs again visually to the value 50 of consoles dial. Click then Next and follow the Windows instructions.
The following is Z-axis, it's on the consoles left rear end. It is used as Oil radiator in the examples but you can use it as you wish, for ex. outlet or inlet cowls shutters in the game. Follow the instructions and rotate the pot first full open (clockwise) and then full close (counter clockwise). Follow the Raw Data values, they should be about 495 / minus 512. Click then Next.
Calibrate the X-rotation similarly as above: The pot is on the consoles right rear end as Water radiator, rotate it full open and full close. Follow the Raw Data values, they should be between 495 / minus 512. Calibrate similarly the two pots on the consoles long right side: Y-rotation (Mixture) an Z-rotation (Stabilizer and Elevator trim wheel). Follow the Raw Data values, they should be between 495 / minus 512.
Notice that with my older 2018-2019 console models the six conventional potentiometer axis (radiators, stabilizer etc.) are working vice versa: actually open is "close" (= minus 512). It's ok, you map the pots in the game as normally and invert those axes with ticking the box where the axis can be turned. The Axes are connected "right side" since Spring 2020 and don't need inverting any more.
At last calibrate Dial (RPM-lever): push it forward full open and then pull it backward full close. Do the same to Slider (Throttle lever): follow the Raw Data values, they should be roughly between 430 / minus 430 or more (individual varialbe values are because they are working with small magnets and "eternal" hall sensors). Click then Next and Ready. Click OK and calibrating has done!
You can always check the calibration with the Properties -window: Move all the axes one by one and check that those red bars (and the cross in the X/Y-square) are moving smoothly from full close to full open.
Press the trim wheel into place on it's shaft manually. Place the risers under the console so that the pot knobs below are not damaged.
Removing the trim wheel using a chisel head screwdriver as an aid. Place the risers under the console so that the pot knobs below are not damaged.
IL-2 Sturmovik GB Update 5.204, which came in June 2024, finally removed the 64 Button limitation from game controllers. Now with the Bomber Console you don't need extra Joystick Gremlin and vJoy utilities anymore! The maximum amount of buttons and axes on a controller increased from 64 to 128 - modern joystick and throttle combinations could exceed the old limit when connected to one another. This shouldn't be a problem anymore.
Console's MJ16 USB circuit board makes possible to connect up to 110 buttons and special (custom) functions.
MJ16's buttons 65-112 are intended for special functions for ex. On-Off switches double signal's. When the switch is snapped to On-position (forward) it sends for ex. button 65 pulse. When the same switch is snapped back to Off-position (backward) it sends button 73 pulse. The special buttons are physically next ones: 8 X On-Off switch (buttons 65-80), 1 X 5-way rotary switch knob (buttons 81, 82, 83, 84 and 85), 2 X Push-Pull switch (buttons 86/94 and 87/95), 1 X Covered On-Off switch (buttons 88/96)MJ16's buttons 97-112 are intended for digital rotary encoders which are used to console's Roll and Rudder trimming axes (black bakelite knobs). NOTICE: After IL-2 Sturmovik Great Battles 3.201 update the Pitch trim moved to the much better Big stabilizer wheel analog axis. Now all the Pitch trims and adjustable stabilizers are in the same Trim/Stab wheel's precision 3-turn potentiometer.
Yaw (rudder) trim (buttons 97/98 and 105/106) and Roll trim (buttons 101/102 and 109/110) are still used with the rotary encoders and they both have four functions: counterclockwise slow motion, clockwise slow motion, counterclockwise fast motion and clockwise fast motion. Rotary encoder trimms are very sharp and also fast to trim. Former Pitch trim (buttons 99/100 and 107/108) is now free to other usage: It's good to Drop bombs mode (clockwise rotating) and Drop bombs delay (counter clockwise rotating) toggle. Or you can for ex. accelerate and declearate time with it in the single player mode if you don't fly ground attackers or bombers. As you wish! :)
Console has three special switches you must map only to ONE direction or HALF of their functions:
Push/Pull switch = Start (87/95) where only button 87 is mapped. When you pull it up (On) it gives (in the game) some signal or command. After that you can push it down and it gives ANY signal (Off).
Covered On-Off switch = Eject (88/96) where only button 88 is remapped functionally. At first rise the cover and when you pull the switch forward it gives in the Great Battles the Bail out command. After that you can close the cover and it gives ANY signal when the switch is going back to Off-position. But with the CloD the switch forward gives "Jettison canopy" and switch backwards is is just a command to jump. So if you fly both games by turns you must map them very similar or otherwise you will be confused with the buttons all the time!
Great Battles: Rotary switch = Flare colors (81-85) where you need to map only the buttons 81, 82, 83, 84 and 85. Leave the Console buttons 89, 90, 91, 92, 93 and couple of other buttons unmapped, instructions are later. We don't want that they give any unwanted signals.
If you want to adjust the Throttle and RPM levers frictions, you must remove the bottom plate at first. Both of the mechanics are almost similar and they have two 7 mm friction bolts each other. You need to tight or loose only those bolts which are shown in the pictures below. NOTICE: There is a very cramped installation space when the RPM-lever (smaller handle) friction is adjusted. I personally broke two of micro slider switches myself when I adjusted it with the 7mm spanner in a very narrow gap between the metal case and lever mechanic.
Notice: Be very careful and don't damage those MagRez hall sensors. The bolt needs only a small movement when it affects!
Copyright © Ismo Homanen - Kanttorin Kone 2018