In the picture above are the eight axes witch you must at first calibrate with the instructions below. There are also special buttons and their numbers. You must give them key commands with the SV Mapper (instructions are in this page later). All the other buttons and switches without the numbers are buttons 1-64 and the IL-2 Sturmovik Great Battles understand them without any special mapping. Off course you must map them in the game with the Settings/Key Mapping!
You must calibrate axles carefully with the instructions below. The Throttle Console has much more axles (8) than normally small throttles so it takes time that everything is working good. It is also good to check calibation sometimes for ex. before important missions or after long period without using it.
Open Devices and Printers and select on of the Game Controllers as in the picture above. Click that icon with right mouse button and select the Game Controls Setup from the list.
Select the throttle console from your game controls list, it can be Mjoy, MJ16, OJ16 or Mrud depending on your Windows version. Click then Properties and the Properties window is opening. Click Settings and then Calibrate.
Welcome to Device Calibration Wizard window opens, just click Next.
Following window asks you to "Leave the handle centered" but it means the conventional joystick's handle. With the throttle console you must center the two potentiometers on the consoles’s deck which are X-axis and Y-axis. They are often used as joystick's two axes but now they are used as Outlet cowl shutters and Inlet cowl shutters potentiometer's axes. Center both pots to the value 50 of consoles dial (12 o’clock) and click then Next.
In the following window tick the "Display Raw Data". That picture is from my Finnish OS computer but it looks same with english OS, too. Rotate both pots to full clockwise (open) and then full counter clockwise (close) couple of times. The numeric values must be between 510 / minus 510 (about) for both axes. After that center the pots again to the value 50. Click then Next and follow the Windows instructions.
The following is Z-axis and it is on the consoles left rear end. It is used as Oil radiator in the examples but you can use it as you wish. Follow the instructions and rotate the pot first full open (clockwise) and then full close (counter clockwise). Follow the Raw Data values, they should be between 495 / minus 512 (about). Click then Next.
Calibrate the X-rotation similarly as above: The pot is on the consoles right rear end as Water radiator, rotate it full open and full close. Notice! this pot's values must be between 0 (zero) / minus 510 (about). it is some strange Windows game controller feature. Anyway the resolution is over 500 and that potentiometer works still good as radiators or cowling shutters. Click Next.
Calibrate similarly the two pots on the consoles long right side: Y-rotation (Mixture) an Z-rotation (Stabilizer wheel). Follow the Raw Data values, they should be between 495 / minus 512 (about).
At last calibrate Dial (RPM-lever): push it forward full open and then pull it backward full close. Do the same to Slider (Throttle lever): follow the Raw Data values, they should be something between 400 / minus 400. Click then Next and Ready.
You can always check the calibration with the Properties -window: Move all the axles one by one and check that those red bars (and the cross in the X/Y-square) are moving smoothly from full close to full open. Notice that the RPM and Throttle levers bottom red bars are moving vice versa than the other four analolog potentiometers. It is ok, don't care about it!
If some of the axles is not calibrating properly close the Properties -window. The unconnect the console's USB cable for a moment and then connect it again. Then you must make whole that calibrating again so many times that everything is working properly. If you need help, just contact me by E-mail and we can speak in the Team Speak. I can also give technical support with the Team Viewer.
Click OK and calibrating has done!
MJ16 GVL224 USB circuit board where red means the eight axes connectors (Dial = RPM-lever, Slid = throttle lever, Rz = stabilizer wheel, Ry = mixture, Rx = water radiator, Z = oil radiator, Y = outlet cowls ja X = inlet cowls).
Blue means the basic buttons 1-64 connectors, yellow means the special buttons 65-96 connectors (they need SV Mapper) and green means the special 97-112 connectors for rotary encoders (trimms, they need SV Mapper, too).
Download it from. here: SV MAPPER DOWNLOAD
You need a freeware SV Mapper key mapping application with this console, because the MJoy16 USB-circuit board has so many custom functions: IL-2 Sturmovik understand only 64 buttons and the MJoy16 circuit board has 120 of them. The SV Mapper translates all those special button numbers (which are over 65) to normal key commands.
The special buttons are physically next ones: 8 X On-Off switch (buttons 65-80), 1 X 5-way rotary switch knob (buttons 81, 82, 83, 84 and 85), 2 X Push-Pull switch (buttons 86/94 and 87/95), 1 X Covered On-Off switch (buttons 88/96), 1 X Yaw trim rotary knob (buttons 97/98 and 105/106), 1 X Pitch trim rotary knob (buttons 99/100 and 107/108) and 1 X Roll trim rotary knob (buttons 101/102 and 109/110).
The SV Mapper software is very simple to use, the GUI is just a text table, don't require install on Windows. Just extract the file for some folder, create a shortcut for the svmapper.exe and set run "As administrator".
SV Mapper can be started after the game start (using Alt+Tab) and configured/modified "on the fly" over the game for make changes. You must always start the SV Mapper as you start the other gaming applications, too. In the picture below is an example how you can map the SV Mapper's buttons 65-110. You don't need to map buttons 1-64, because IL-2 Stumovik Great Battles understand them.
Start mapping by clicking the Button 65's column Mapped key On Press. The Device symbol's "Button-ball" on the left column changes yellow and you can then add the keys "LCtrl" (Left Control) and "Numpad 1" to that button. Repeat the mapping to the other buttons same way. After that save your settings with the "Save as..." command. With the Windows 10 save the file format as "SV Mapper Old File (*.svm)". You don't need to write those Descriptions witch are in the right column. They are there that you can see which are the buttons functions in the game.
NOTICE! In the game's Settings/Key Mapping -pages those key commands are usually shown without the LCtrl (Left Control) key. So if you have mapped "LCtrl+Num1" it is shown in the game as "Numpad 1". Sometimes the current mapped switch/button don't give instantly the mapped key command in the game's Key mapping: There is shown for ex. "Joy1_pov65" etc. Try it couple of times after you can see the right number which you have mapped with the SV Mapper.
With the SV Mapper there are three special switches which you must map only to ONE direction or HALF of their functions:
Push/Pull switch = Start (87/95) where only button 87 is mapped with the SV Mapper as "LCtrl+7". When you pull it up (On) it gives (in the game) key press "7". After that you can push it down and it gives ANY signal (Off).
Covered On-Off switch = Eject (88/96) where only button 88 is mapped with the SV Mapper as "LCtrl+8". At first rise the cover. When you pull the switch forward it gives (in the game) key press "8" (Eject). After that you can close the cover and it gives ANY signal when the switch is going back to Off-position.
Rotary switch = Flare colors (81-85) where you need to map only the buttons 81, 82, 83, 84 and 85. Leave the SV Mapper's buttons 89, 90, 91, 92 and 93 empty and then they they don't give any "double signals".
IN THE GAME: Remove all the default key commands which has numbers 0, 1, 2 and 3. You find those commands from Key Mapping/Engine controls: "Switch common control of engines on/off" (0), "Switch engine 1 control on/off" (1), "Switch engine 2 control on/off" (2) and "Switch engine 3 control on/off" (3). Clear those four commands and everything is ok!
If you want to adjust the Throttle and RPM levers frictions, you must at first remove the bottom plate. Both of the mechanics are almost similar and they have two 7 mm friction bolts each other. You need to tighten or loosen only those bolts which are shown in the pictures below.
Notice: Be very careful and don't damage those MagRez hall sensors. The bolt needs only a small movement when it affects!